Spending a month in Costa Rica was a crash course on eco-tourism; from government policies to sustainability PR, the country has successfully sold itself as a haven for animals and humans alike.
Unsurprisingly, this small, unassuming Central American country has garnered an international reputation with its green landscapes, coffee production, biodiversity, and countless outdoor activities. It has something to offer most travelers, but there are also some lessons about greenwashing and how tourism, no matter how positive, impacts local people.
Costa Rica: A Global Leader in Eco-Tourism
Costa Rica is home to about 5% of the world's species, making it one of the most biodiverse countries on earth, which is even more surprising that it's about the size of Slovakia.
One of the effects that Costa Rica proves is that conservation and economic development can complement each other. The country emphasizes environmental preservation, and over 25% of the land is protected, which means plenty of national parks and wildlife reserves.
There's a wide range of landscapes and ecosystems within hours of each other, including cloud forests, tropical beaches, and rainforests, each home to unique animals like sloths, frog species, turtles, iguanas, and more.
The Sea Turtle Conservancy (STC) in Tortuguero is one of the world's oldest sea turtle conservation programs, increasing the local population by 500%! It's an example of how conservation can be done right with proper management and local community engagement.
The country also uses 98% renewable energy and is on its way to becoming carbon neutral.
Costa Rica's Sustainability Policies
Costa Rica helps to regulate sustainable tourism by creating the CST (Certification for Sustainable Tourism), which businesses can apply for and are awarded for complying with regulations like proper environmental practices, energy management, and community engagement.
National parks are regulated, with some like Manuel Antonio capping the daily visitor limit, which is something that other countries can take into consideration to help combat overcrowding and over-tourism.
So, what makes this country unique amongst its neighbors?
After a short, turbulent civil war in 1948, Costa Rica abolished its military and is now one of the few countries worldwide to not have an active army. All of this means that it's had relative stability compared to its neighbors and has had no civil wars or heavy gang crime since.
The government took military spending and invested some of it in public services, which is reflected in the education system and above-average literacy rates for the region.
How Stability Leads to a Prospering Tourism Industry
The tourism industry has boomed in Costa Rica, in part because it's seen as a safe destination, especially compared to other countries in Central America, which attracts more foreign tourists, particularly families.
Good roads, plenty of hotels, resorts, eco-lodges, and Airbnbs also mean it's easier to find accommodation than in neighboring countries like Nicaragua and Honduras. Both of which have ongoing political problems.
By remaining stable politically and economically, Costa Rica has positioned itself as a safe haven for foreign companies (mainly the US) to invest, so you'll see your fair share of McDonald's, Starbucks, and even Taco Bell.
It's easy to see the Americanisation of Costa Rica, and it does give way to questions about foreign involvement, capitalism, and authenticity or lack thereof.
Why is Costa Rica so Expensive?
One of the consequences that comes from a relatively stable economy is high prices. This is one of the most expensive countries in Latin America, and although wages are generally higher, the minimum wage depends on the industry, and not everyone benefits.
One of the consequences of favorable tax policies and lower prices than the US is that ex-pats and digital nomads are moving in and gentrifying desirable beach locations like Manuel Antonio.
The coastlines are popular locations for foreign investment homes, which means pricing out local people and creating luxury neighborhoods. It's not a problem unique to Costa Rica, but it's easier to see the effects in such a small country.
No Public Transport?
It's not the easiest place to backpack because, in truth, it's expensive, and the cost of some basic goods is inflated (there are convenience stores that sell a packet of Lays salted crisps for $6.50).
Although many of the main inter-city roads are asphalt and well maintained, public transport is not often an option or takes hours from town to town.
Many Costa Ricans rely on cars, and it's not unusual for every family member to own one, which leads to one thing in towns and cities–incredible traffic.
The type of traffic you would expect to see in Bangkok or Los Angeles in small cities. So, when it comes to public spending and sustainability, one downfall is the number of cars on the road. For tourists, this also means expensive car rentals.
Does Costa Rica Feel Authentic?
It depends on how you define an 'authentic' travel experience. Costa Rica has a well-developed tourism sector with enviable international PR, selling it as a country full of outdoor adventures, especially considering its countless adventure parks and activities like ziplining, paragliding, and bungee jumping.
It felt like eco-Disneyland, but it also seems like that's what they are going for.
However, like most countries, if you deviate from the beaten path and visit the coffee region, smaller beaches, and local hilltowns, you're more likely to get a taste of what Costa Rica is besides its famous draws.
Greenwashing?
It's not always clear how sustainable businesses are, and like in most countries, transparency is something that's not always easy to showcase, or rather, it's better to leave some details out. One of the secrets the country keeps behind closed doors is that it's among the highest users of chemical pesticides per hectare, most of which are hazardous.
But unless you're on a farm stay, the agriculture and tourism industries don't generally mix, so it's easier to keep this side of Costa Rica's environmental policies hidden.
As always, when traveling, supporting local businesses and accommodations can help directly contribute to the local economy and smaller ventures over large international chains and brands.
In general, numerous countries can learn from Costa Rica when it comes to conservation and sustainability-focused policies, as well as how to merge conservation and tourism.
But from a traveler's perspective, the American influence and predictable tourist towns of Monteverde and Manuel Antonio don't leave a memorable impression. The coffee region of Tarazau and smaller, naturally beautiful towns like Cachi provide a glimpse of Costa Rica's original charm and are worth visiting.
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